1797 Open Robe

This was a very last minute project, but so quick and easy!  I attended at Twelfth Night Ball in Sudburry at the Wayside Inn in January.  This was an event put on by Rev War reenactors.  So yes, I was very out of date (futuristic I guess) but I didn't care.  I didn't want to wear my zone front again and couldn't wear my Francaise because I had lent my hoops to a friend.   So instead I whipped this up to wear over my drawstring dress which I made for our Holiday Tea in December.

I didn't get many good pictures unfortunately.  The lighting was really low (it's a historic inn!) and I was tired when I got home.  Maybe I'll have to get more on my dress form.

 

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.  I couldn't get any sleeves to work that I liked so decided to leave it sleeveless in the end.  I used leftover silk from my Civil War ball gown and had just enough to eek this out.  I based it off the open robe from Janet Arnold but made the bodice separate, so there's a waist join.  There are three box pleats that line up with the three back seams so it has the same feel as the JA one.  I also had this gorgeous gold trim that I had been waiting to use on something pretty and it was perfect with this!  I covered the three back seams and all along the bodice neckline, tabs and sleeves.

 

I wore my hairpiece in the large curly style of the 1790's and wrapped a turban around it made from an unhemmed strip of chiffon I had lying around.  I also added my great-grandmothers jet bead necklace to add some bling to it.

Topping off the accessories were leather gloves and a silk fan I made.  Which I will post about soon as this is definitely a project I want to share!

The robe has a train which wasn't great for dancing (or walking in a crowded room) but I really had fun wearing this dress.  I don't know when I'll be able to wear it again but I'm very happy with it!

Moar shoes!!

It's finally here, the leather version of American Duchess' Gerogiana shoes, the Devonshires!

So pretty!  I want mine in pink please!

The Devonshires are a leather 18th century shoe based on museum examples from the 1760s through 1780s.  They're made of top-grade dyable leather, with a beautiful, smooth Italian leather sole for dancing, and are hard-wearing, water- and mud-proof, for even the toughest of outdoor re-enactments.

Pre-Order the Devonshires through August 10, and get the special $100 price.  We're only making 200 of these shoes, so don't miss the chance to own one of only a couple hundred pair on the planet!  Visit www.american-duchess.com to order.

So what are you waiting for?  Go get your pair! 

We have sleeves!

Though I spent most of last night hanging out with friends, I was able to finish putting the sleeves on my jacket which I'd started on Monday night.  I actually didn't have too much trouble with these, which was nice!  I decided to do more bias ruffles in the stripe for the sleeve ruffle instead of just white.  Since the ruffle on the back of the tail is striped too, I figured it would go more.  I also decided to not do a zone front.  Instead I altered the bottom to be flat.  So now all that's left to do is finishing the center fronts, since I'll be pinning it closed.  I do need to do some fixing there.  I cut the stripe with a much bigger seam allowance for the CF and the lining is too short now for where the closure should go.  This is because I draped the pattern over my yellow stays and my new linen stays are not quite as confining.  Which also means more comfortable!  But I'm getting wrinkles because it also means they are more curvy.  Anyway, it's close to done, so that's good!

 

I need to finish up the fichu but I draped it over everything last night and I like the look of it.  I need to figure out how I'm going to close it.  I need a little corsage of flowers or a bow or something.  Those longer ends will be trimmed off, I'm just worried about making a mistake...

Other than finishing up minor details the only thing left to really worry about is the hat!  Still don't know what I want to do about that.  But here's what I have so far, pinned into place, set on top of Miss Ella to see the effect of the whole ensemble (although admittedly the hat is hard to see in this pic).  I may change the ribbons on the hat and use the same red stripe as the sash.  Not sure.  Or I may scrap the whole hat idea and just do a turban or finish my cap or something!  Though my cap is not at all close to the "fashionable" size of the time, it's way too small! :)  Sorry for the crappy iphone pictures, apparently the light in the room is very yellow... 

Sometimes I forget...

Sometimes I forget that I've only been doing this historic costume thing for under two years still.  I've been interested in it for so long, and I feel like I have good hand skills, so when I can't get something to work how I want or if I don't know everything about an era or if it's not perfect I get really hard on myself.  This is a reminder to myself to chill the heck out.  I feel like I've come a long way in just those two short years.  Sometimes looking at things I made just starting out I can really see my progress and it makes me happy to know that I can only get better from here, right?

I finished boning and started binding my new stays last night.  They are looking pretty cute if I do say so myself! :)  I'll have to snap a picture of them soon.  I forgot to do that last night.

Just so it's not a picture-less post I'll share a pic of the lovely pile of ribbons I bought on my trip to Utah just a few weeks ago.  There is a great pharmacy actually that sells lots of nick-knacks and clothes, and also, randomly, super pretty, super cheap ribbon.  Even silk ribbon!  So I went a little crazy.  But I need more hats! :)  So now the question is, what to use first...

As for my French Revolution hat I think I'm going to look for something at the thrift store and the antique show I'm going to this weekend that I can use as a base.  I don't feel like starting from scratch.  I always have my big pink pouffy hat from the picnic last year that I can wear.  It was common to mix pink and red together, so I'm not worried about it "going".

Oh, also good news, my Georgiana shoes are on their way to me!  Yay!  That means I'll have them in time!  The question is now, should I try to dye them before?  I was thinking of dying them pink since I feel like that will just go with everything.  The dresses I already have will all match pink, plus I already have a pair of ivory shoes, so keeping them that color isn't necessary.  My other question is whether to do this myself (following the Dreamstresses instructions) or to take them somewhere.  I'm worried about time in the case of the latter, but I could always wear them and then get them dyed.  I am mortally afraid of ruining them.  It is an outdoor event, so I guess we'll see.  This of course is going to make me want the Devonshires too, the leather version.  And all this is dependant on whether they actually fit when I get them... :P  Anyway, something to look forward to!

I also spent part of last night looking through the books I checked out.  I feel ok about doing a crossed and tied in back fichu, which makes me happy.  I got an embroidery card that will be perfect for whitework on a fichu, so I'm going to get started on that soon as well.  I'm also close to being done with my cap, so that will give me an option if I don't want to wear my wig or really do my hair.  I think caps under hats look super cute.

Anyway, that's the update so far!  I won't have much time for working on things tonight or later this week (hooray for Harry Potter!!) but I think I'll still be able to get everything done in time.  Especially if I'm not such a freaking perfectionist!

New pink linen stays

So this weekend I started and have almost finished a new pair of stays.    I realized that my only pair of 18c stays are more 1770's shape and I needed late 1780's early 90's for my French Revolution jacket ensemble.  So I drafted a pair based on the 1790 brown jean pair in Jill Salen's book.  I made them front and back lacing, just to make fiting a bit easier, cause I'm lazy like that.  They are also meant to be very light weight and cool, as I don't love wearing tons of layers in the middle of summer.  Plus, I've realized I don't need a ton of shaping. :P

They are made from three layers of linen, two are a natural medium weight and the outter layer is very light weight light pink.  I sewed them with the seam allowances on the outside and then clipped and covered them with bias tape.  All of the boning is light weight cable ties and I was even lazy enough to use metal grommets for the lacing.  There was no way I was going to handsew all those eyelets by next weekend and finish an entire outfit.  I just didn't care enough this time.  But I'm glad I didn't because I don't love the fit.  I was going more for the "prow front" shape and I didn't really get that.  Maybe it's because my chest is almost non-existent?  That could have a lot to do with it, but I also may not have made the curve on the front piece big/dramatic enough.  I feel like it gives me about the same results as my old pair.  Though they are much lighter!  And perhaps more comfortable.  They are shorter waisted and also a bit lower in the bust.  So there are some differences.  I may re-do the neckline of my jacket, as they were wide and low at this time period.   I don't want to make it *really* low, though I will be filling it in with a fichu.  Anyway, all that's left to do on the stays is to get some more cable ties (only one side is fully boned), bind everything (I have yet to ever finish binding a pair of stays, so we'll see when this ever happens, the top gets done but not the tabs) and figure out what I want to do for straps.  I thought at first I wouldn't do straps, but they sit wrong without them, they slip down in back.  So for now I'm using ribbons pinned from the back.  I like how easy that option is so I may just add some grommets and use ribbons!  I could always make straps that tie on with ribbons later if I didn't like just the ribbons...

Lots of things left that I'm still trying to figure out.  I really want big fichu that will wrap around and tie in back, but from what I've been able to find, that wasn't necessarily the style then?  It certainly comes in after in the 1790's. And might also be before?  I guess I should say, my outfit is aimed at 1789.  I might just do what I want though and not care.  At this point I just want to be able to get it all done and have something to wear!  I've been on hold with the skirt because I'm not sure walking length was popular then either, but I don't want it longer, though if my new shoes don't get here in time I won't have good shoes to go with it.  I don't know what I want to do for accessories and I don't really like the hair options either.  I'm much more partial to the 1790's, transition to the empire fashions.  The late 1780's all seem to have this straight piece hanging down in the back, I am not a fan of it really.  I will probably just wear my blonde wig.  It will look good enough, but that's going to be so hot!  Also, what should I do for a hat?  So many questions!

I checked out some books from the library at lunch today about fashion in the revolution and so we'll see what I can find there if it helps me figure out what I'm doing.  Anyone have any opinions?

Patriotic sewing

So, while I didn't have any super exciting plans for the 4th this year, I still made it a patriotic weekend!  We've planned out events for the rest of the year for our little costuming group and it's got me all excited to get going on them.

First up, I've decided to have a Bastille Day Celebration Picnic!  I was jealous of the fun Philly events that were going on for that so decided to throw my own!  So of course I need something to wear that is appropriately patriotic.  And isn't it convenient that the French and American colors are the same? :)  So I started a little blue and white striped jacket and a new froofy white petticoat.  I have some red and white striped ribbon that I will wear around my waist and of course I need to figure out some other accessories, like a crazy hat and a big fichu.

I matched the striped in center back! :)

 Here's what I have so far.  The bodice is assembled except for the sleeves (and strap) and center front closure (I need to try it on first).  The peplum was a curved rectangle shape that I attached bias cut ruffles to and then just box pleated to fit the back.  I'm pleased with how it's turned out so far!

You can also see the pink batiste curtains I hung this weekend.  It adds some much needed color to the sewing area.

I also realized I needed a bigger and better bum pad.  While my other one is fine, I wanted a much more exaggerated "shelf" look in the back.  So I created a giant petal shaped one.  It went together very quickly and I'm pretty pleased with the effect!

Does this make my butt look big?  Yes?  Good!

I started the petticoat as well (not the one shown in the picture).  It's 5 58" panels of very sheer batiste, two for the front and three for the back.  I thought about putting a big ruffle on the bottom, but then when I looked through more fashion plates I didn't find many examples of that, so I'm just leaving it plain.  I'm hoping someday to do some machine embroidery on it.

So, I'm close to done with that, but guess what?  I've decided I want proper 1780's stays.  Mine are much more 1770's.  I thought I would never be that person, to feel the need to make new underwear for every little change in an era, but there's something else motivating this need.  I don't want to be too hot!  And I can make the new pair out of just two layers of linen and only lightly bone them!  The jacket is already very lightweight, which I'm happy about, but my yellow silk stays are so hot, so I think this would really help.  I have some really nice linen in the stash and I think it could be a fairly quick project.  Especially as I never manage to actually finish my stays, I hate binding them!  The other plus is they might not show as much through the fabric (you can see my yellow ones a bit under the bodice, which I didn't notice until I took the picture), the linen I have is cream, so on me, basically flesh colored! :)  So I'm going to try to get those done before I finish up the jacket, especially the center front.

I also worked on handsewing an 18th century cap while watching the History Channel's documentary series about the Revolution on Netflix which made me feel very patriotic.  I'm about half way done.  I won't be wearing this with the Revolution outfit though.  This is for later this summer!

Anyway, that's it so far.  I'll leave you with one of the images inspiring me:

From Dames a la Mode. Very patriotic, non?

Next on the list...

So, it seems I can't just take a break from sewing for a bit...  I have too many things I want to do (and too much fabric to do it all with) that I can't just sit around and do nothing.  I knew this would happen.  I've been so busy and stressed for the last three months really that I thought I need to impose at least two weeks of not working on anything.  But of course the moment I'm done with something, my brain is full speed ahead on all the new projects I want to do.

Here's a list of the things I'm dreaming about doing.  How many will actually happen and in what order is yet to be determined.

Regency ballgown - embroidered and beaded net fabric for this
Green striped round gown
Aqua Edwardian afternoon ensemble
Navy blue linen Gothic Fitted Dress with reversible wool sideless surcotte, oneside pink, one side light blue (for King Richard's Faire) - this was a new decision yesterday...
Northager Abbey riding ensemble - white trained gown with blue velvet spencer, neckcloth and top hat
Purple striped early bustle dress
And, I have tons of pretty silk in blues and greens that I'm thinking of making 18th century jackets with or something, plus a quilted silk petticoat to finish.

But of course I'm crazy and started a new project last night.  I'd finished the pioneer stuff I needed to do and was doing some cleaning and organizing of the sewing area.  As I was going through my fabric (and all these plans were tempting me) I decided to start with something easy and fun (that of course I have absolutely no need for) that I can hand sew on my trip or at work.  Forget the fact that I am already working on an 18th century embroidered pocket.  I am crazy. 

Anyways, using the pattern from my Aqua spencer, I am making a simple drawstring Regency gown out of some embroidered cotton with a metalic stripe.  I wasn't super happy with how my drop-front Regency dress came out for CosCon (especially the sleeves) and so I figured before jumping into some other regency dresses, I should first figure out a pattern that works.  I cut it out and started sewing it last night.  I am not lining it as I will wear it over my bodiced petticoat, and so I am flat felling all the seams.  I love Regency dresses for hand sewing because they are so fast and easy!  I have the bodice almost entirely assembled just from an hour and a half of sewing last night while finishing a movie!  The other reason I started with this dress is because if I don't get to the Regency ballgown I will still have something I can wear to a dance, since the metalic thread makes it a little dressier than everyday occasions.  Anyway.  I hope it turns out!  I think I'd have enough fabric to re-do the bodice if I'm not happy with it.  I altered the pattern without doing a mock-up.  Since I'm doing a drawstring closure, I figured it wouldn't be too much of a problem! 

Anyway, I promise to post pictures of a lot of these things soon!  I realize I still haven't posted pictures from Costume Con!  I need to fix that!  I had a couple new things that I was really happy with!

The List

So....  I thought I'd make a list of everything I have to do related to Costume Con so that when I can get back to all of that I'll remember and get going on it! :P

• Finish drop-front Regency gown (sleeves, hem, re-do bib)
• Make Aqua Spencer (possibly now short sleeved with long sleeves to baste in! Win Win!)
• Make Striped Regency Bonnet
• Make red Regency bonnet to go with Jumper/Pelisse ensemble
• Add placket to Tudor kirtle
• See about adding cable tie boning to kirtle bodice to reduce horizontal lines
• Finish gold snood with pearls
• Make velvet flat cap
• Possibly lengthen doublet/jacket just a bit by taking down the seam allowance a bit
• Finish Floral Francaise which includes hem, petticoat, sleeve flounces, trimmings around neckline
• Alter short stays and attach petticoat to them
• Make bigger 18th c pockets (very quick n dirty job ok)
• Fix blonde wig
• Figure out hairpieces for other costumes (make braids and curls and things with hair I have)

So OK.  It sounded like a lot to do, and it is, but now reading over everything I think it's totally doable!  I just need to stay busy busy busy and multi-task, like making all the hats/bonnets at once, taking things to work on at lunch (doing the snood right now), etc.  The only question mark is the Spencer, that could take some time.  I guess I won't be hand sewing it.  And I may save the long sleeves for another time (I have some elbow length gloves coming that I think will be perfect with this outfit!).

Anyway, am I crazy? Wait.  Don't answer that...

A bodice!

I've made some good progress! The side seams are done, the lining has been attached and the neck line has all been finished. I've finished one side of the bottom edge and pleated both sides of the back skirt. All that's left is to finish the other side of the bottom edge and finish the center front opening with hooks and eyes.

I spent last night mocking-up sleeves, which although they took a while, I got them perfect so now I have a pattern I can use for all my 18th c stuff!  I also was able to cut the skirt fronts and pleat the sides up tonight.  I just need to attach that and sew up the side seams and I'll be close to done. All that will be left is to set the sleeves in! And trimming! And hemming! And a petticoat! :) But it's taking shape. I tried it on over my silk petticoat just to get an idea of how it was looking before I'd added the front panels.

This just has the back skirt tucked into the
front to see what it would look like.  :)

I tried to match up part of the pattern on the front but because the print isn't symmetrical it doesn't match exactly, but that's ok. I think it looks ok.

Also, I've finally gotten all the packages I've been waiting for! And my wigs came! I'm not too pleased with one, and though the other didn't seem right at first either, it's definitely growing on me. Definite potential. I'll have to play around with it soon and see if I can get it do what I want. For now, here's a little teaser pic. It's the "showgirl" wig from Lacey in blonde. Heh.

Actually looks pretty 1790's already! :)

Also, I'm sure most of you know, but this is really exciting. American Duchess has finally finished prototyping 18th century silk shoes for costuming! They went on pre-sale on Friday, and she's already sold 100!  Which is what she needed to guarantee they would be made.   I'm so excited!  I love the shape, and the best thing is they are dyable! I just don't know how I'm going to decide what color I want mine to be... and I only wish I'd have them in time to wear with my Francaise to Costume Con! Oh well, my 80's bridal shoes will have to do for now... :P

ETA: I started writing this earlier this week updated it a couple times and am finally getting around to posting it.  So I've actually finished a bit more today on the Francaise.  I hemmed the front skirt edges and attached them to the bodice.  Tomorrow I'll sew up the side seams and start working on the hem probably.  Or the sleeves.  Or actually I should do the CF closure... that way I could actually try it on! :P

Floral Francaise

My Marie Antoinette inspired Floral Francaise is coming along.  I've changed my approach just a bit as I've done more research and am now making it more historically accurate, which means straying a bit from the movie dresses, but I don't think to far.  I've also decided to hand sew it.  Well, I'll do the skirt and petticoat seams on the machine, but everything else will be by hand.  What can I say?  I've been sucked in to the hand sewing thing.  I like working on it at night while watching Netflix.  And I'm getting better too, which is good! :)

So here's my inspiration and how mine is coming:

This one's my favorite.  I love that fabric!  From here.

From here.

I decided to make the front a center front closing instead of doing a stomacher.  I found lots of period examples of this and I really liked the look.  I also haven't seen many other people do it this way, so it would be a little different, which I also like. :)  Here are some other dresses that I drew a lot of inspiration from, including something I'm doing with mine, angling the stripes on the front.

This is from Costume in Detail, it's a dress from 1742-52, but I loved the center front opening and the trimmings!

 I was surprised at how early this gown was, when it seems like most others at this time period all had robings, I thought they would be on later gowns, which was true of the others I found.  And some with stripes!

1770's.  From here.

From the Kyoto Fashion book, you can see there are no robings, and in another picture (that's sort of blurry since it's in the background) it looks to be a center front closure and the description says it buttons closed, it's from 1770-5.

Another center front opening, again from 1770-5, and the stripes (which are hard to see since I cut the rest of the dress out of the picture) of the dress are slightly angled on the front and the trim follows the pattern!

 So!  Here's my progress so far.  I draped the back and sewed the pleats down as well as tacking them in a line and also tacking down the back sides to make it more fitted.  These two are from before I sewed the pleats down.

Look how the pattern lines up down the pleats! :)

From the side.

I also draped the bodice today, since I'd figured out what I wanted, and I'm really happy with the fit, though it did take some time.  I cut my fabric out, the floral fabric on the diagonal, and will hopefully start sewing that tonight or tomorrow night!

The front, I did make some alterations after this, but it looks pretty much the same, which is to say fitted! :P

And from the side.  I'm liking how the back hangs.  This is after I've sewn the pleats.

So after I sew the front bodice on to the back, I'll cut the front panels and attach them, then make the petticoat.  Man am I glad I bought more fabric!  I would not have had enough with my original 5!  Then it's sleeves and trimming!  And hemming, which I always find a pain, especially on large hems like this!!

I've also been working on the hat for this which will be a little straw one I think.  Though I may cover it with ivory silk, like the one in the movie's garden scene above.  I partially took apart a straw dolls hat, am flattening it, and I will sew the little crown back on.

So it's coming along!  I have to finish it before April 9th, which is another 18th century ball.  And of course I'll be wearing it to Costume Con. :)

I've also got lots of other plans for other things, but I'll save that for another post... ;)